Opryland, Dark and Under Water

Anecdote of the Jar Wallace Stevens I placed a jar in Tennessee, And round it was, upon a hill. It made the slovenly wilderness Surround that hill. The wilderness rose up to it, And sprawled around, no longer wild. The jar was round upon the ground And tall and of a port in air. It …

Lassi Come Home

At the Bombay Indian Restaurant / Bombay Bazaar, Robert Moss, who spent some time in India this year, had a fantastic write up about this combination of Indian grocery store and restaurant back in October. While I generally love Robert's writing, I did feel that he did the restaurant a disservice by largely overlooking a …

The Dining Revolution Begins With Dinner

Charleston, we need to chat. I have for some time had a growing misgiving about our fair city. We continue to enjoy the blessing of the spotlight of national culinary focus. The Upper King Street Design District continues to develop unabated with killer eateries like The Grocery, The Macintosh and Mike Lata's as yet un …

The Kitchen Ambience

I woke up last Wednesday to the daily email push from the NY Times, the Wednesday dining section and their Diner's Journal. Two articles grabbed me out of the gates - What Chefs are Rockin' to in the Kitchen, and an amazing piece of news on one of my heroes, Louis Armstrong. It's not uncommon …

The Lost Recipe of William Deas

Chef William Deas, inventor of She Crab Soup and the REAL Rhett's Butler. Who Was William Deas? In Charleston, the story of Mr. William Deas and his invention of She Crab Soup is the legendary stuff of history and tour guide fake-lore. Most everyone knows or has heard the fabled account of how Mr. Deas, …

The Grocery

Charleston's restaurant scene is as dynamic as ever. It's been great getting back into the swing of things here and re familiarizing myself with old favorites, and finding new ones. When I left Charleston in 1999, the so-called "Upper King Design District" consisted basically of King Street Skates and Miss Alice's Fine Foods. Needless to …

Maillard Reaction, with Apologies to Chef James Clark

My buddy Chef James Clark is arguably the most avid outdoorsman I know this side of Rene Redzepi, and probably a whole lot more fun. While you can imagine Rene truckin' around the woods outside Copenhagen looking for edible lichens to pair with a cardamom - milk skin, Chef James would much rather spend time …