The Dining Revolution Begins With Dinner

Charleston, we need to chat. I have for some time had a growing misgiving about our fair city. We continue to enjoy the blessing of the spotlight of national culinary focus. The Upper King Street Design District continues to develop unabated with killer eateries like The Grocery, The Macintosh and Mike Lata's as yet un …

The Kitchen Ambience

I woke up last Wednesday to the daily email push from the NY Times, the Wednesday dining section and their Diner's Journal. Two articles grabbed me out of the gates - What Chefs are Rockin' to in the Kitchen, and an amazing piece of news on one of my heroes, Louis Armstrong. It's not uncommon …

The Lost Recipe of William Deas

In Charleston, the story of Mr. William Deas and his invention of She Crab Soup is the legendary stuff of history and tour guide fake-lore. Most everyone knows or has heard the fabled account of how Mr. Deas, the butler at the historic John Rutledge Inn, invented our iconic soup to welcome President William Howard …

The Grocery

Charleston's restaurant scene is as dynamic as ever. It's been great getting back into the swing of things here and re familiarizing myself with old favorites, and finding new ones. When I left Charleston in 1999, the so-called "Upper King Design District" consisted basically of King Street Skates and Miss Alice's Fine Foods. Needless to …

Maillard Reaction, with Apologies to Chef James Clark

My buddy Chef James Clark is arguably the most avid outdoorsman I know this side of Rene Redzepi, and probably a whole lot more fun. While you can imagine Rene truckin' around the woods outside Copenhagen looking for edible lichens to pair with a cardamom - milk skin, Chef James would much rather spend time …

Anecdote of the Pulled Pork BBQ Hash

"What," I asked flatly "did you say?" The elder brother replied. "May I try some of that also?" ...and then there were none. The morning smells of pecan - laced smoke, caramelizing onions, malt vinegar and muscovado sugar grafted to crispy taters and shredded porcine goodness had done the job. It was the nudge needed …

The Super Secret Burger

This blog begins with a cheeseburger. Due both to the fact that it is first and foremost the primary focus of my younger step son's diet, and to its iconic status in American foodways,  I wanted to weigh in. As the previous Executive Chef at Gaylord Opryland, the 17th largest hotel and convention center in …