Why Mickey Bakst Matters (w/ Stuart Brioza)

"Gentlemen. When two separate evens occur simultaneously pertaining to the same object in inquiry we must always pay strict attention." "Give me a donut." Special Agent Dale Cooper, Twin Peaks I ran across an old Stuart Brioza menu. I was trying to put some sense of order to the man cave / office and found …

Lost Flavors Found

As originally published in Mt. Pleasant Magazine, 7/2015. Special thanks to my editor, @DeniseKJames. Posted by MPM 2 Comments Original photo by Heather Grilliot, additional photos courtesy author. Maniacal and seemingly half-crazed, Glenn Roberts bursts through the back kitchen door. “I’ve got to be across town in 15 minutes. Here,” he blurts, handing me a small …

Of Tripe and Tribulations

(...with the stipulations that this was written by Hanna Raskin, original photography by Grace Beam and originally published in the Post and Courier 12/16/2015. ) To modern ears, oysters and tripe sounds like an indulgently luxurious dish. In the 19th century, though, when doctors obsessed over the duration of digestion, the combination was considered healthful. …

Cow Pea Receipts in the Home of Nat Fuller

"Among the many rich blessings especially given to the South, there are but few, if any, that stand out more prominently than the cow pea..." George Washington Carver On Sunday, I had the great pleasure of assisting in an historic tasting of 20+ varieties of cowpeas at the beautifully preserved WIlliam C. Gatewood house on …

Cook it Raw Charleston: Middleton Place

It's been 2 years since Cook It Raw came to Charleston, and it remains the single most impactful event of my culinary career. An annual gathering of the culinary world's best and brightest, Cook It Raw seeks to remove chefs from their kitchens and plant them in different surroundings. Meditating upon the meanings of cuisine and …

Aquapacolypse – Charleston Restaurant Closures Continue!

Hope everyone is safe. Access to the peninsula is limited to emergency crews and essential personnel only at this time.  Here, again, is a live link to the Post and Courier's Live Map of CIty Road Closures. Kinsey Gidick posted a brief list of Charleston restaurant closures yesterday. What about you and your teams? Are you …

Who is Charleston’s Most Underrated Chef?

Pretty spent today after a very strong weekend, so I'm catching up on some reading. I recently (and finally) pulled the trigger on several issues of Fool magazine. The culinary magazine awarded "Best Food Magazine" 2012 by Gourmand Magazine has been elusive to find on the newsstand. Finally, curiosity got the best of me and …

Open Letter to the Chefs of Tomorrow

In my post Monday, I included some of the discourse of the New Nordic Kitchen Manifesto that has helped direct and align the efforts of Rene Redzepi at Copenhagen's Noma. I also underscored the impact of the Manifesto on our own cuisine here in the Lowcountry if we were to apply the same precepts. As …

The Griot Played Goddess

I met a lady named Vertamae Smart- Grosvenor once at a nice restaurant in a Charleston alley. My wife and I were attending a Southern Foodways Alliance event- one of those gigs where they ply you with local goodies and screen a Joe York documentary. Vertamae grew up in rural Hampton County, SC. Her parents moved …