The Palmetto State & Joel Poinsett

Jadie from over at Boone Hall Farms stuck his head in the kitchen with one of the biggest,  happiest poinsettias I'd ever seen. "Hey man," he says, "I brung ya some Christmas spirit!" This time of year, red or white poinsettias become ubiquitous. Tradition states that in 16th century Mexico, an impoverished girl named Maria was inspired by …

Of Tripe and Tribulations

(...with the stipulations that this was written by Hanna Raskin, original photography by Grace Beam and originally published in the Post and Courier 12/16/2015. ) To modern ears, oysters and tripe sounds like an indulgently luxurious dish. In the 19th century, though, when doctors obsessed over the duration of digestion, the combination was considered healthful. …

2016 SC Chef Ambassador

On Tuesday, I was called to the SC Governor's Mansion to be recognized as a 2016 SC Chef Ambassador.

The Dead Follow Me

"His soul swooned slowly as he heard the snow falling faintly through the universe and faintly falling, like the descent of their last end, upon all the living and the dead." James Joyce, The Dead After posting several times in recent months on the plight of Nat Fuller's final resting place, the neglected Heriot St. …

Giving Back to Nat Fuller

  I've written previously about Nat Fuller, the singular hospitality provider known for hosting a Reconciliation Dinner a week after the end of The Late Unpleasantness. (You can read my posts here, here and here.) For a fairly thorough account of his life, visit the Lowcountry Digital History Initiative. I have, at long last last, …

What’s Next- A Charleston Restaurant Report

Great seeing Charleston so beautifully represented on Anthony Bourdain's Parts Unknown this week, and to see so many friends pop up (I'm talking to you BJ Dennis!) As suggested in the episode, growth in Charleston seems to continue unabated, as does the continued growth of our dining scene here in the Holy City. Last week, …

A Review of Origin by Ben Shewry

One of my team mates, after watching the excellent Netflix "Chef's Table" has recently become enamored of Ben Shewry, the chef of Melbourne's "Attica." I've been a fan of Ben Shewry's since he first popped up on my radar, about 2008. I appreciate him not just as a chef, but for his commitment to his environment …

Cow Pea Receipts in the Home of Nat Fuller

"Among the many rich blessings especially given to the South, there are but few, if any, that stand out more prominently than the cow pea..." George Washington Carver On Sunday, I had the great pleasure of assisting in an historic tasting of 20+ varieties of cowpeas at the beautifully preserved WIlliam C. Gatewood house on …

Cook it Raw Charleston: Middleton Place

It's been 2 years since Cook It Raw came to Charleston, and it remains the single most impactful event of my culinary career. An annual gathering of the culinary world's best and brightest, Cook It Raw seeks to remove chefs from their kitchens and plant them in different surroundings. Meditating upon the meanings of cuisine and …