Today, as the world rings in the Lunar New Year, the air in Charleston is filled with the scent of ginger, soy, and celebration. While we often think of “Charleston food” as a strictly Lowcountry affair—shrimp and grits or she-crab soup—the truth is that the “hidden wok” of the Holy City has been simmering for over 130 years.
Chinese restaurants have operated in Charleston since 1893 — decades earlier than most people realize. As we celebrate the New Year, let’s peel back the layers of a history that began in the 1890s and led to some of the most unique restaurants the South has ever seen.
The First Chinese Restaurants in Charleston: 1893–1897
While many believe Chinese cuisine arrived in the South mid-century, the research of renowned food historian Dr. David Shields tells a different story. The earliest records point to a man named Hing Fang, listed in the 1893 directory at 256 King Street. By 1894, he was joined by Yue Hing & Company at 156 King Street.
Life for these early restaurateurs wasn’t easy during the era of the Chinese Exclusion Act. To “attract custom,” Yue Hing began offering Southern favorites alongside traditional Chinese dishes. By 1895, his menu featured fried chicken and oysters, effectively creating the city’s first fusion concept to appeal to the local palate.
The Atlantic Cafe: Chop Suey and Steaks
By 1900, the Atlantic Cafe became a fixture at 135-137 Market Street. Owned by John Augustine, the cafe boasted an “Expert Chinese Chef” while advertising “K.C. Western Steaks” and “Delectable Sea Foods.” It was a place where a sailor off the docks could get a steak while a curious local tried their first bite of stir-fry.
Labrasca’s: Charleston’s Mid-Century Culinary Split Personality
Fast forward to the mid-20th century, and Charleston saw one of its most legendary culinary experiments: Labrasca’s.
While Leonard LaBrasca is famous for introducing pizza to the Holy City, the King Street location featured a fascinating twist: the space was literally split down the middle. One side was a traditional Italian “Spaghetti House” with red-checkered tablecloths. The other side? A fully realized Chinese restaurant. It was the ultimate Charleston compromise: spaghetti and meatballs on one side, egg rolls on the other.
A Modern Renaissance: Asian Excellence in the Lowcountry
Years ago, I lamented the lack of diversity in Charleston’s dining landscape, but today, that narrative has shifted. Our Asian food scene is experiencing a brilliant renaissance, led by chefs who honor their heritage while embracing local ingredients. If you’re looking for the best the city has to offer, these are the modern-day pioneers:
• Jackrabbit Filly & King BBQ: Led by fellow SC Chef Ambassador Shuai Wang. These spots blend “New Chinese American” heritage with the soul of Carolina wood-smoke.
• Kultura: Chef Nikko Cagalanan (James Beard finalist) celebrates Filipino culture through modern interpretations and his famous Sunday Kamayan feasts. Recently, Nikko and the Kultura team have opened Bareo, serving a mix of Filipino and Japanese dishes and is rapidly garnering buzz.
• Brasserie XO: A must-visit in NoMo for elegant Cantonese and Sichuan-influenced flavors and wok-fired classics.
• Old Li’s: A local favorite for authentic, savory, and seafood-forward Min cuisine from the Fujian Province—don’t miss the handmade dumplings.
• Chef Loong Dim Sum: A cultural touchstone on Savannah Highway for the best soup dumplings in the city.
Taste the History You Can’t Google
TripAdvisor can tell you where to eat, but it won’t tell you why fried chicken appeared next to noodles in 1895. On my chef-led historic Charleston food tour — named the #1 Food Experience in the World in 2021 — we connect King Street, Market Street, and Exchange Street to the plates in front of you.
We explore the overlooked stories and trace the evolution of Charleston’s restaurant culture while eating exceptionally well along the way.
[Reserve your seat on Charleston’s most immersive chef-led food tour → → https://undiscoveredcharleston.com/tour-booking/]
Note: Seats are limited and tours often sell out weeks in advance.
FAQ: Chinese Food History in Charleston
When did Chinese restaurants first open in Charleston?
The earliest documented Chinese restaurant appears in the 1893 Charleston City Directory under the ownership of Hing Fang.
Where were early Chinese restaurants located?
They were primarily located along the King Street corridor and near the bustling Market Street docks.
Is Chinese cuisine part of traditional Charleston food culture?
Yes, absolutely. Chinese restaurateurs adapted Southern ingredients into their menus as early as the 1890s, creating some of the city’s first true “fusion” dining experiences.
Does Charleston have a historic food tour that covers Chinese restaurant history?
Yes. On the Undiscovered Charleston chef-led walking tour, we explore the overlooked stories of immigrant restaurateurs who shaped the city’s food culture.